Stephane Rolland Couture Spring Summer 2013 Paris
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This season, Kim came without Kanye, and arrived in time for the show. Squads of bump-watchers craned their necks, hoping to catch a glimpse of the couple’s growing sensation, well hidden behind several layers of bodyguards and photographers.

Meanwhile, Stephane Rolland stroked a musical chord. A septuor of violinists perched above the runway in Grecian dresses and provided occasional embellishments on the soundtrack. Save for a singular touch of emerald green crystals encircling a waist, visions in white and black rippled down his immaculate runway, like moving piano keys.

Sleek comes to mind when looking at the collection, from the formfitting silhouettes to the billowing capes and trailing fishtails that compose Rolland’s visual signature. Despite a Rolland mainstay of silicone embellishments and organic shreds scattered here and there, this is his most understated collection yet.

Moving on from his exploration of the circle, he carved great swathes of fabric away clean, creating a suspended feeling by visually detaching a train from its dress by a sheer fabric section. A tuxedo-dress has a faux-mini look, while a bustier is finished off with short leather plastrons. Dramatic wing collars carve space around the neckline, conquering the face. Without a doubt, Rolland continues to explore volumes created out of fabric with verve.

A reverent hush fell for the finale as catwalk legend Carmen Dell’Orefice owned the runway as Rolland’s bride, resplendent if a little dramatic in a trouser suit with a billowing cape. Timelessly elegant, a true reflection of the Stéphane Rolland aesthetic.

- Lily Templeton

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