The issue concerning Schiaparelli on previous outings is that it’s always been a little bit too like costume-box-dressing, which is tricky in a world where there isn’t much room for costume occasions as it is and where workwear-derived dressing (jeans et al) wins out. So it was nice to see a tamer take from Bertrand Guyon, the new-ish installed designer at the resurrected house – he made his debut last season following the departure of former creative director Marco Zanini.
He brought the zany, surreal charm of the famed house (which we know, want, and expect) and put it all into wearable realms for a change – twinsets and jackets. Separates! – ideal for insertion into one’s life no matter how couture or not it is.
There were lots of little Alice in Wonderland moments for teatime and foodie motifs in sequins and beads which branched out into fluffy bohemian moments with frothy wisps of gowns that came with equally frothy pussy bows that, since the Gucci overhaul, fashion just can’t seem to get enough of right now. Pleated platoons of skirts – of course there was one in Schiap pink – made for further floating confections: it was all supremely light and again moved away from that dress-up mentality that we’d seen so much of before.
Bias-cut gowns (house code: tick) seeped into the floor, whose print was the same and so it all added to that signature surrealism. Elsewhere you could clock it as intricate beadwork on pockets, which made for particularly special details. It was those kinds of considerations that worked to say more than those in the past that had tried too hard to say too much and had ultimately provided a conflicted message. Today it was clearer and cleaner, light.