Trussardi Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Milan
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Umit Benan is a men’s wear designer by nature and it continues to show in his vision of the Trussardi woman, entering his fourth season at the creative helm of the house. Whereas in collections past this has translated as a lack of confidence in his new role, this time, in the context of a season where oversized mannish coats are among the hot ticket items, it played in his favor. The designer bowled out countless handsome options like a chic double-breasted checked navy style cinched with a slim black leather belt to define the waist; a roomy black coat pulled over a leopard print jacket; an off-white peacoat, and an ankle-grazing clean-cut navy trench that looked like the kind of thing French Vogue’s tomboy-chic editor Emmannuelle Alt (sat front row) would look good in. Interspersed were a couple of graphic chiffon ensembles in a black and white windowpane check, a nice long and lean sleeveless black chiffon dress, and another sleeveless belted dress in soft brown leather with black wool side panels. By contrast, many of the line’s other obligatory leather options, honoring Trussardi’s heritage, looked clunky, especially masculine suits in rigor mortis raw-cut leather, which had unflattering cuts, pinched at the shoulder and wider at the hips. Mastering leather for apparel is no easy task, but Benan definitely needs to soften up his skins to better channel the brand’s feminine instincts.  

- Katya Foreman
 

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