With the sartorially inciting Umit Benan out, and family scion Gaia Trussardi now in the designer driver’s seat at the august brand, there was no doubt in the minds of anyone sitting in the audience at the spring/summer 2014 show that things were going to be acutely different this season.
For her first go at the womenswear line Gaia purportedly turned to the films of David Lynch for inspiration. But what came across was more of a western tinged trip to the USA. And truthfully, take away the cowboy hats and the sliver fastened neckerchiefs and there was little that really linked this collection to the Far West. Except if you count all of the snake skin pieces and prints as some sort of a rattle snake reference.
What this collection came down to was classically cut garments- a blouson jacket here, a well cut blazer there- in ultra luxe materials like buttery leather, organza, shantung, python, and silk crepe. There were a few little sparks of ingenuity in a flap of fabric left on the front of a tank top or a pair of knife pleat-fronted wide cut trousers. And the crop tops were certainly on trend.
But nothing made this show feel like a cohesive entity. Just a selection of non offending clothes for people who don’t like to rock the sartorial boat. At only 33 years old, Mrs. Trussardi should not be so staid.