This was a sharp collection from Pierpaolo Piccioli for his first solo menswear outing following the split from his design partner Maria Grazia Chiuri who went to Dior last year. And so instead he teamed up with the artist Jamie Reid to create a range of patchwork slogans that read: "Beauty is your birth right" and "Claim your heritage", which peppered a collection that also heavily promoted the worth of the man bag – more specifically the man's clutch bag. [CONTINUE READING...]
“I wanted to redefine my man, it’s the first show I’ve created on my own.” Pierpaolo Piccioli completes a rereading of the man’s wardrobe, from British quotes to small poetically punk touches.
Just a perfect day: Breaking the ice, realizing that the person sitting next to you is also singing along to the Lou Reed soundtrack, “You made me forget myself...”. Laughter. Your eyes are drawn to the portraits hanging on the walls around the room. In a kind of library, an English club that’s been gutted and recreated by Valentino in the heart of Paris, signifying a new direction for menswear at the maison.
“I wanted to redefine my man, it’s the first show I’ve done on my own,” Pierpaolo Piccioli, the creative mind behind the house, explained to MFF “Men have changed so much in the past 20 years. A gentleman in the sense of a gentle man, sensitive and strong, I feel naked, exposed. This is a different approach, more unfiltered and emotional.”
In a journey that goes from Caravaggio to the distorted works of Francis Bacon to Jamie Reid, the celebrated creator of the artwork for the Sex Pistols’ God Save The Queen album - who also created two poems especially for Valentino - in that celebrated punk lettering that was embroidered and woven throughout the collection. On hats. On sweaters. On the back of parka jackets. On the oversize capes that opened the show in a flush of couture style looks. The silhouette is softened, the palette dispersed, wool blends in pastel hues, reinventing checks to create a new patchwork. Micro scarves on shirt plastrons, with a graphic edge in a discreet nod to the house’s heritage. “A modern punk, who values diversity.” Poetically punk.
Verdict: Something has changed, and you can see it. The looks have a new feel that is less put together, less rigid. It’s in the softness of the tailoring, jackets with a strong presence but a lightweight feel. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino show entertains, with music. With chiaroscuro style lighting, transmitting warmth.
By Stefano Roncato - MFF Magazine for Fashion