What's the score at Dior?

Just as photographers hover like flies around specific street-style-worthy fashion press, said press hover like flies around the Dior show. They always have, because it's always big news. Today was no different – and column inches will be filled with the backstory of Dior before we even get to what came down the catwalk, so here's a quick overview of the latter before we get to the necessary former: beautifully reworked bar jackets that riffed between off the shoulder, on the shoulder, or oversized; seriously cool neck chains that trailed from one side down the body; lots of layering in that pseudo-disheveled way we've come to know of late (this is couture after all); cocktail frock curves to necklines and fluted but controlled cuffs and sleeves; and lots of chandelier embellishment. There.

 

 

The backstory? It was just over three years ago that Raf Simons, the former creative director, made his Dior debut, couture July 2012. All eyes were on him. Today, there weren't to be any eyes on him at all because he left the house at the end of last year. So it seemed strange in some ways for there to be just as much, if not maybe more, hype about this collection with no "notable" name behind it. Because everyone likes a name and everyone is still wondering who will fill the Dior role.

 

 

The answer for today's collection, and foreseeably beyond, at least is the design team – they stepped in back when there was a Galliano-to-Gaytten handover: they're solid.

 

 

But the collection didn't feel like a huge departure from what we saw under the tenure of Raf, and certainly with specific reference to his last couture offering. But then it shouldn't have, really – luxury houses need stability to build trust and maintain loyalty, not constant reinvention. That's the trick – and one that often gets lost with the in-out-in-out nature of creative directors.

 

 

A seeming labyrinth of mirrors made for the set and one could perhaps draw parallels with a sense of reflection. But that's the thing about fashion: you can read what you like into these things and it sometimes does and it sometimes doesn't mean anything at all. But this was a job well done from the design team who shyly took their bow together at the end of the show.

 

 

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