Copenhagen’s legendary Jazz scene and Billy Holiday were the wellspring for Ole Yde’s eponym label (YDE) this season. Inspired by the golden era of Jazz in the ‘50s and ‘60s, when musicians like Ella Fitzgerald, Ben Webster and Stan Getz called the cosmopolitan city home, the young designer presented a collection reminiscent of the magical epoch.
Bell sleeves and the bronze threading of tweed-like jackets evoked the brassy shine of band instruments, while sheer was suggestive of a bar-room's smoky haze. The designer also played around with variations in length, proffering gowns and well as skirt separates – perhaps considering that all Jazz divas need suitable options off-stage as well as on.
But this was a collection that was contemporary as it was evocative. While the solemn blacks, wine reds and flawless tailoring denoted classic elegance, the mix of silks and velour with textured wool, jacquards and sequins screamed of modern pluralism.
For the first time also, Yde unveiled his jewelry line - which included enormous emerald stones set in gold - the perfect complements to the stately designs.
All things considered, Yde's fall-winter 2014 show was solid, not ingenious and hardly transcending. But it wasn’t lady sings the blues either.